The canoe race
The largest paddling event in New England. 16.5 miles from Discovery Park in Kenduskeag to a finish in downtown Bangor, with Six Mile Falls halfway along. Free to watch.
Penobscot County · Maine
A small valley town on a whitewater river, twelve miles upstream from Bangor. Every April the Kenduskeag Stream fills with canoes and kayaks; the rest of the year it fills with trout, eagles and the best walking in the Bangor region.
“Kenduskeag Stream” · Nicholas Stasulis / USGS · Public domain
Kenduskeag is not a resort town and does not pretend to be one. What it has is a river, a race, and the kind of open country that Maine is good at.
The largest paddling event in New England. 16.5 miles from Discovery Park in Kenduskeag to a finish in downtown Bangor, with Six Mile Falls halfway along. Free to watch.
A Class II–III rapid on the top of the Kenduskeag's whitewater, six miles north-northwest of Bangor. Spectacular from the bridge; serious from a boat.
Two and a half miles of riverbank path with lookouts over Lovers Leap, the old mill ruins and interpretive signs along the whole walk.
Brook trout and landlocked salmon in the cold reaches, alewives and eels in the pools, bald eagles on the bank — plus nine miles of trails in the Bangor City Forest.
Pick-your-own apples, pumpkins, berries and ice cream at Treworgy Family Orchards in nearby Levant, and strawberries and blueberries on the Corinth Road.
Canoe race in April, fly fishing all summer, the State Fair in July, apples in the fall, and snowmobile trails and Nordic skiing in the winter.
The river
Thirty-three miles of cold water running from Garland Pond in the west, through Kenduskeag, and into the heart of Bangor where it meets the Penobscot. The Penobscot people called it the place where eels gather.
It is a working river. Cold water for Atlantic salmon, alewives and eel, trout in the pools, and wooded banks where bald eagles nest and hunt. Sawmills once crowded the shoreline; the ruins of several still stand in the woods, and Henry David Thoreau walked these banks on visits to Bangor more than 150 years ago.
“The Kenduskeag, then a deep flowing stream, with its beautiful cascades from Six Mile Falls to tide water, has shrunk to a comparative rivulet in summer time by the clearing of the forest.”
John A. Poor, 1869 — on the stream before the logging eraThree itineraries that work, whether you have three hours or three days. Times are suggestions, not appointments.
Park at the Franklin Street bridge in downtown Bangor and walk 2.3 miles upstream to Valley Avenue, past Lovers Leap and the mill ruins.
Trail map ↗Two blocks of independent restaurants, bars and shops between State and Main, then a walk on the Penobscot River Walkway.
Stop at the bridge on Route 15 to watch the water. Best light is late afternoon.
Trout water above the town, or a float on the flat reaches below it. Guides and rentals are listed on the stream page.
Fishing rules ↗The clubhouse at Kenduskeag Valley Golf Course on Grant Road, right on the water.
Apples, pumpkins, ice cream and a corn maze in nearby Levant. Twenty minutes away.
Farm details ↗Kenduskeag, Cole Memorial Field, the golf course and the Case Memorial Library, then west to Treworgy and the Corinth Road berry farms.
Waterfront, City Forest, museums, and a night on the Bangor or Brewer waterfront.
Fort Knox and the Penobscot Narrows Observatory, or an afternoon at the Maine State Museum in Bangor.
Bangor has the restaurants, the hotels, the hospital and the airport. Brewer has the quiet waterfront. Beyond that, Acadia and Katahdin are a long day's drive.
Waterfront concerts, the 31-foot Paul Bunyan, the Zillman Art Museum, Maine Discovery Museum, the Bangor Symphony since 1896, and a downtown worth an evening.
The Brewer waterfront promenade, Chamberlain Freedom Park, the Penobscot River trail and the Holmes family legacy — a small city with a long memory.
Mount Katahdin and Baxter State Park, the granite towers of Fort Knox and the tallest bridge observatory in the world, and the coast at Acadia.
In town it is a golf clubhouse, a convenience store and a coffee window. Ten minutes away in Bangor it is a proper restaurant scene.
The clubhouse restaurant at Kenduskeag Valley Golf Course, on Grant Road above the stream.
Fuel, coffee, ice cream and snacks on Broadway. Open seven days.
Two blocks of independent restaurants and bars, plus Sea Dog Brewing on the river where the canoe race finishes.
The Bangor store on the edge of the City Forest, with kayak tours and classes on the water outside.
The river has a season, and so does everything else here.
The canoe race, third weekend of April. High water on the stream, mud on the trails, and the first fishing of the year once the river clears.
Bangor State Fair in the last two weeks of July, the American Folk Festival on the last weekend of August, swimming, paddling and long light.
Apples and pumpkins at Treworgy in Levant, berries and then apples, the best hiking weather of the year, and waterfowl moving down the river.
Snowmobiles on the Kenduskeag Stream Riders trails, cross-country skiing at the Bangor City Forest, and skiing and tubing at Hermon Mountain.
Four things that trip people up in this part of Maine.
Fishing the Kenduskeag Stream needs a Maine fishing licence (16 and over). Non-residents: roughly $69 for the year, or a $14 one-day licence.
Most outdoor burning needs a permit, including a campfire. They are free and issued online by the State of Maine.
Cell coverage drops out in the valley and there is a dead spot at the town office. Download maps before you head up.
Even in July, the Kenduskeag is cold enough to be dangerous and fast enough to carry you away. Respect the Class II–III sections.
Save these before you need them. For any emergency in Maine, dial 911.
Northern Light Eastern Maine Medical Center, 489 State Street, Bangor — a fifteen-minute drive, with a 24-hour emergency department. For anything non-urgent, the town office can point you to a local clinic.